Alex Megos fires off Tuareg Blanco (F9b/+) - another newbie at Margalef
- Friday 17th January 2025
Alex Megos has ticked off the first ascent of a “long standing project” at Margalef climbing Tuareg Blanco (F9b/+) at the winter-sun sector, Raco de Espadelles.
Hailing from Germany and with easy access to the Frankenjura, Alex Megos likes pockets; it’s no surprise then that he’s a fan of Margalef. His scorecard already has a number of FA’s at Margalef; Perfecto Mundo (F9b+) and The Full Journey (F9b) amongst others.
His latest addition was bolted over a decade ago by Adrien Boulon. After Megos’ first ascent, Boulon told Fanatic Climbing a little about the line saying “It's an emblematic route for me, I equipped it more than 10 years ago when the 9b+ did not exist on site. After an approach about 8b+, comes a really hard "movement concept" section in a super compact overhanging rock. I am glad that it has remained intact and has been spared from the arrangements with Mother Nature that are perpetuated in the hard ways and projects there."
Over the years a few climbers – including both Ramon Julian Puigblanque and Will Bosi - had tried the line but came away empty-handed. Tuareg Blanco kept Megos entertained for a total of 11 days on his latest trip having invested four days on a previous trip. For context, Megos took 16 days on Perfecto Mundo back in 2018 whilst he dispatched Change and Move – both (now) considered F9b/+ and both at Flatanger – in five and nine days respectively.
During a short interview with Fanatic Megos compared his latest route to his previous Margalef offerings as well as the project he was working recently in The Red River Gorge.
‘To be honest, it was very hard for me to propose a grade. It's a different style compared to the other hard routes of Margalef. I think it's harder than First Round, First Minute and The Full Journey, and it also feels harder than other F9bs I've already done. It's also not easy to understand with the weather, and the fact that it can be very hot on the south face when it's sunny, which didn't help me to decide on the level. On the other hand, I think that Perfecto Mundo is a notch above.
‘The project in Red River is definitely harder. But it's true that it's a bit similar to Tuareg Blanco, so it's true that it was a good training!
Concluding his comments Megos told Fanatic that he intends to concentrate on outdoor projects in 2025…watch this space!