Greg Boswell pushes Scottish envelope with Bring da Ruckus (X12 13)
- Friday 13th January 2023
Greg Boswell is once again pushing the envelope of Scottish mixed climbing with the first ascent of Bring da Ruckus (XII 13), Lochnagar.
Climbing ground-up and with no prior inspection yesterday Greg Boswell took three attempts to establish one of the hardest routes yet climbed in Scotland. Describing his latest first ascent, the third super hard route he’s climbed this winter season, Greg commented, “The sustained nature of this route and the power packed and blind crux roof puts it above every other high grade route I’ve climbed in Scotland.”
Writing on his socials, Greg described how he came to try the route, how his attempts went and the final outcome.
“Yesterday @jamie.skelton, @hamishfrost and I walked into Lochnagar without any real plan. When we got to the col and looked into the Coire, we saw the crags looking good and instantly decided it would be good to get on something fairly interesting.
I’d like to say I don’t succumb to peer pressure easily, but when we reached the bottom of Shadow Buttress and I stated that the monster roof was on my radar to try this season, they both egged me on and I eventually decided it was worth giving it a go.
Long story short, after two all out battles with the huge roof and some moves of a difficulty that I’ve never come across in Scotland, I eventually found myself on the headwall on my third attempt of the day. Surprisingly though the climbing didn’t let up and it was a painstaking battle, including the last move, which I very nearly messed up. A final sting in the tail!
It was awesome to get on something of this difficulty without knowing anything about what was above. Climbing the route ground up and swinging through the roof on blind, scrittley pick placements, not knowing remotely what was above was a real mental battle!
As I belayed Jamie and Hamish up the pitch, we were listening to the sound of avalanches ripping down the Coire to either side of us. We were safe, due to our route choice, but as the light faded and Jamie set of on the second pitch, there was an ominous feeling from the booming ruckus in the darkness, from snow ripping down the gully lines off in the distance.
Once safely back at the bags it was big smiles and tired arms all round! What an adventure!”
Grading isnt an exact science in any aspect of climbing; winter climbing has even more variables that the first ascensionist has to weigh-up. Greg however, had this to say about the grade of Bring da Ruckus which he gave XII 13, “The grade range is very open to suggestion in the upper reaches of the Scottish mixed climbing world, as there are few very hard routes and it’s all down to personal experience, plus the style in which we approach the climbs has a huge effect on the grade. But for the ground up or onsight is how I prefer to grade. Until people repeat these routes, it’s all a bit of a guess.”
Greg has been pushing the envelope of Scottish winter climbing for some time now. His first ascent of Bring da Ruckus is his latest instalment of that action.
Hopefully Climber will be able to bring you more info on Greg’s latest route as soon as possible.
Meanwhile watch some amazing footage of Greg climbing the massive roof on Bring da Ruckus on his Instagram page here…