Newsflash: Echo Wall repeated by James Pearson
- Thursday 1st August 2024
James Pearson has just released news from high on Tower Ridge of Ben Nevis that he has made the second ascent of Dave MacLeod’s 2008 seminal mountain trad route, Echo Wall.
Originally climbed in July 2008, Echo Wall was left ungraded by the first ascensionist Dave MacLeod. Reports however filtered out that a fall from the crux high on the upper arête was likely to be very serious given there was a very real prospect of a groundfall of what was said to be F8c climbing. Recently and whilst discussing the grade in a Youtube video about grading, Dave MacLeod suggested that Echo Wall might be worth E10.
James, a columnist with Climber Magazine, headed north to Scotland after The North Face DWS comp held in London with the specific intention of looking at/repeating Echo Wall. Despite poor weather conditions James began working the route on a toprope on his own in mid-July. Within a few days and despite having to contend with typically poor mountain weather, James had managed a “clean” ascent on a self-protected top rope. Early this week James was joined by his wife Caroline Cialvaldini. Switching to lead mode for the first time James then led Echo Wall using pre-placed gear and with the top/crucial gear backed up with his static rope.
James and Caro were back on Echo Wall today but initially, the conditions weren’t good, the rock was wet and it was midgy. However, things improved and James tied in for the lead early this evening and made the second ascent. Reports are that they are now stripping their gear off the mountain.
Shortly after his first ascent Dave MacLeod released a film about Echo Wall but other than that very little else is known about the route. Despite it being one of the biggest unrepeated trad routes in Britain, Echo Wall has attracted very little attention from would-be suitors. Steve McClure made a foray north to try the route a couple of years ago but spent all day lost in cloud and mist high on the Ben wasn’t even able to locate the route until late in the day.
Climber will bring you more news when we can.