Nicolai Uznik gets first ascent of Mount Doom (Font 9A)
- Friday 7th March 2025
Austrian climber, Nicolia Uznik, has made the first ascent of Mount Doom (Font 9A) in Maltatal, Austria.
Claiming the second new Font 9A of 2025, Nicolai Uznik’s ascent of Mount Doom brings the total of Font 9A graded boulders world-wide to 13. Earlier in January, Italian climber Elias Iagnemma made first ascent of The Big Slamm in Italy. Click here for that report.
‘Arguably the best day of my climbing life yet. So Happy.’ Nicolai Uznik wrote on his Instagram page announcing the news.
Uznik started working on the line in 2021 but it wasn’t until the autumn of 2024 that he was able to do all the moves on the boulder and start linking them. In January this year it looked as though it was coming together: ‘In January, it was the first time I thought I had an actual chance of sending it and started giving good attempts. Now I’ve had about six or seven more sessions on it, getting really close - including several falls after the ‘main crux’ and even three times at the very last tricky sequence.’
Then however, things went south: ‘On my last go, which was actually my best one yet, my foot slipped, and I fell quite badly, twisting my ankle. That means I’ll have to take a little break now until my foot gets better again.’ Uznik wrote.
A month later, with some concentrated training under his belt whilst his ankle got better, Uznik got the first ascent. Understandably delighted with his first ascent, Uznik wrote: ‘For me, climbing has always been about fun. Competition is important, but I’ve always tried to balance it with outdoor projects. I love being in nature, traveling, and climbing with my friends. That’s always kept me motivated.’
Having completed Mount Doom, Uznik says he might return to Alphane again or else some of the other projects in Chironico.