Alex Megos storms St-Léger
- Tuesday 23rd March 2021
Alex Megos has had a productive time at St-Léger in France, climbing multiple routes up to F9a+ including a first ascent during a short trip.
In a typically understated on-line post Alex commented: “St. Léger has been a special place for me since the first time I came here with @_felixfelicius_ seven years ago. This time I came back to repeat some routes and also check out some more projects.”
Once the dust had settled after Alex’s short stop-over in St-Léger it was immediately apparent that he’d stormed the crags climbing nine routes between F8c and F9a+, the latter being a first ascent. He’s the list of the route climbed in the seven-day visit…
- Les petits chefs des néant F8c
- La tournée du patron F8c
- L’étrave F8c
- Rêve de Poutre F8c/+
- Crackinette F8c+
- La Ligne Claire F8c+
- La Castagne F9a/+
- Cadafist F9a/+
- Et pour quelques dégaines de plus F9a+ (First Ascent)
French website Fanatic Climbing offers more details about Alex’s efforts. It seems that Alex started his trip climbing La Castagne (F9a/+) in just three attempts. Clearly, a solid opening effort on the route known to offer bouldery climbing as well as fingery and resistance moves on the upper 30m headwall. Megos thought the route was more like F9a/ than the F9a/+ graded offered by Adam Ondra after his first ascent back in 2018.
Continuing the theme of fast repeats Alex redpointed Cadafist (F9a/+) later that week on his second burn of the day having been on it previous days. Alex skipped two rests on this route; one on a tree before the crux and one out right after the crux. Unsurprisingly, having missed-out the two rests, Alex found that one harder than others; again he offered F9a/. Later that day Alex also repeated La Ligne Claire (F8c+); having dropped a flashed attempted on the last hard move Alex got this on his second attempt.
Unfortunately, Eagle–4 was wet so Alex took the opportunity to check out some of the bolted projects at St-Léger including a left-hand exit to Supercrackinette which he suggests will be very hard. Finally, Alex climbed the line two routes left of that route to give Et pour quelques dégaines de plus (F9a+). Originally bolted by Quentin Chastagnier And for a few more draws starts easy but then gives a 10 move crux of about Font 8B to easier but committing final run-out.
Alex confirms that a video of him climbing at St-Leger will be released later.
Meanwhile, follow Alex via his athlete Instagram page here…