Connor Herson makes fifth ascent of Meltdown (5.14c/F8c+), Yosemite
- Tuesday 5th December 2023
Connor Herson has made the fifth ascent of the Yosemite classic test-piece, Meltdown.
‘'This one meant a lot. The most sessions I've spent on a gear-protected pitch, the most uncertain I've been about whether a route is possible for me, the most I've learned on a route—the list goes on'. Herson said writing up his ascent online.
Unrepeated for over decade after Beth Rodden’s first ascent in 2008, Meltdown is considered one of the hardest single pitch trad route in The Valley as well as one of the hardest in the World. At the time of Rodden’s first ascent it was also the hardest pitch ever climbed by a female climber.
Meltdown climbs a thin 60-foot long seam on fingerlocks and laybacks with poor feet. For added pressure, the pitch is protected by hard-to-place gear placements.
Herson is no stranger to hard climbing in the Yosemite Valley; previously he made free ascents of The Nose and The Salathé Wall whilst a teenager. Last year Herson repeated Empath (F9a+) on trad gear. Herson’s 2023 season has however included repeats of both Didier Berthod's Crack of Destiny and Sonnie Trotter's Cobra Crack; he took 5.14b/8c for both these test-pieces.
Writing about his ascent of Meltdown on Instagram, Herson added, 'The crux boulder felt harder than any boulder I've done on the ground. Finally, on Thanksgiving Day, I was able to just barely string the whole thing together! Stay tuned for send footage'.
'So much respect to Beth Rodden for her vision and determination on this one. Her ascent of Meltdown was so far ahead of its time. In my opinion one of the greatest achievements in climbing!'
Since Rodden made her outstanding first ascent in 2008, only Carlo Traversi (2018), Jacopo Larcher (2022) and Babsi Zangerl have repeated Meltdown. Zangrel made the fourth ascent and the first female ascent late last month described the route as 'the hardest trad line I have done so far', and said that, even at 8c+, 'it felt hard for the grade'.