Good conditions in Alps see test-pieces climbed
- Thursday 16th February 2023
The recent good conditions in the Alps has seen a variety of new and established test-pieces climbed by various teams.
Ice conditions are reportedly especially good this year which has allowed teams to get to grips with the great north faces that are inaccessible in summer when higher temperatures increase the risks associated with dangerous rockfalls.
From the 12th to 13th of February, Italian alpinists Francois Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the West Face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc Massif.
Their new line, named Couloir Isaïe (M8 – 7a/7a+ - AI5, 600m), tops out on the Punta Brendel’s West Face at 3,498m.
The 600m, 12-pitch route, encompasses a range of technical rock, mixed and ice climbing – protected by removable gear and pitons – and includes difficulties up to M8, 7a/7a+, AI5.
The team spent the night of February 12th bivvying in the couloir at 3300m, where spindrift rained down on them, resulting in a very cold and wet night’s sleep. They continued their climb the next day, summitting on Monday, February 13th at around 2pm.
Franz commented: “It is always difficult to reorder your thoughts after an adventure in the mountains. Emotions are many and you never know where to start. On the west face of the Aiguille Noire we had a great adventure. It wasn't easy but thanks to our willpower and great teamwork we did something really special that we will remember for a lifetime!”
Directissime de la Point Walker repeat
Also this week another three-man team comprising Symon Welfringer, Charles Dubouloz, and Clovis Pauline have made what is said to be the first repeat of the Directissime de la Point Walker, on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The ED++ 7a A2 route was originally climbed by Patrick Gabarrou and Herve Bouvard in the summer of 1986.
Remarkably, the three French Alpinists free-climbed it over a five-day period during which they endured temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees Centigrade. The route follows a vertical couloir and then an overhanging chimney before finally joining the Walker Spur near the summit which the climbers reached on February 13th.
This was Charles Dubouloz’s second major line on the Grandes Jorasses’ North Face having previously soloed Rolling Stones just to the right of the Diretissima.