Grupper flashes Red River Gorge test-piece Pure Imagination (5.14c/F8c+)
- Saturday 2nd December 2023
Just weeks after his stellar lead performance at the Pan Am Games in Santiago which earned him an invitation to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, Jesse has flashed one of the classic Chocolate Factory test pieces in the Red River Gorge in the US.
Originally climbed by Jonathan Siegrist, Pure Imagination is, like many hard routes in The Red, a tough endurance route which also features some bouldery cruxes. Utilizing beta from Alex Megos who was on the ground, Jesse was able to flash the iconic route.
Writing about his ascent Jesse commented, ‘Pure Imagination’ (14c) FLASH — Dang, that feels surreal to write. I’ve wanted this one for a while. I first peeked at it while trying Golden Ticket four years ago and since then I’ve brewed the idea of giving it a good first go.’
Jesse has flashed several hard routes previously. In 2021 flashed Livin Astro (5.14c/F8c+) at Rumney, New Hampshire. On that occasion, he built up to his attempt on Livin Astro by “working on my flash game” by attempting/flashing harder and harder routes such that he drew confidence from his past accomplishments. Jesse talks in depth about how he prepares for a hard flash attempt on what for him is a “key route” in a forthcoming interview with Climber. In particular, his process is such that Jesse is comfortable with his preparation and the outcome even before he ties in for the attempt; this enables him to concentrate fully on the flash attempt knowing he's in the best possible shape for the attempt.
Writing in more detail about his flash of Pure Imagination, Jesse said, ‘Walking up to it I wasn’t fully sure. I had built up confidence for it with almost two weeks on rock. But still, would it be enough?
The sun was moving fast, there was a queue on the route, and it was now or never. I convinced myself that it would be okay if it didn’t go while reminding myself of all the reasons I was ready.
Getting through the initial crux, I felt a sense of relief. I wasn’t crazy for having this dream - regardless of what happened next. Finishing the last redpoint crux and eyeing up the finishing moves, I felt proud no matter how it ended. But dang it felt good to grab that jug. WOOHOOO
Big thanks to @alexandermegos for the beta shouting from the ground and the whole crew for support. Gonna be one for the memory books. 📚🙌”
Previously both Alex Megos and Daniel Woods have flashed Pure Imagination; Adam Ondra however remains the only climber to manage an onsight of the famous route.
To read more about Jesse’s process see the next issue of Climber Magazine which is published on December 14th 2023.