Kille and Twyford repeat Cassini in Nesscliffe rampage
- Monday 16th October 2017
Oct 16th; 2017
Hot news from deepest Shropshire is that a clutch of hard routes fell over the weekend at Nesscliffe – not least to Emma Twyford who nabbed the fourth ascent of Cassini (E8 6c) hot on the heels of Angus Kille who made the third ascent.
Emma Twyford repeating Cassini. Photo Ray Wood/DMM Climbing
A stone throw from Shrewsbury – well, maybe 10 miles or so – is Nesscliffe; one of the ‘must visit’ crags of the area. It’s been in vogue for some time now with many teams getting a slice of the action. Last weekend saw a veritable rampage however with numerous hard routes getting repeated. My Piano (E7/8), 10 O’Clock Saturday Morning, Gathering Sun (E7) and Yukan II (E6/7) all had repeats from a team which included Tom Livingstone, Rob Greenwood and Ramon Marin. However, Angus Kille fired off the third ascent of Cassini shortly after which Emma Tywford made the fourth ascent.
Cassini was in fact only done a month or so back by local activist and guidebook author Nick Dixon. Taking a pocketed line between Nonsense and Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans, Cassini’s first good gear is in a break about 10m up. A hand placed peg – which fell out when Dixon climbed past it on the first ascent – is the only protection before the decent gear in the break. At the time of his ascent Nick Dixon confirmed that Cassini has height-dependant (F8a) standard climbing high up as well as a bold lower section.
Emma has had several visits to Nesscliffe over the last couple of years during which time she’s flashed Yukan II, seconded James ‘Caff’ McHaffie up The Nesscliff Monster and Trouble in Toytown. She’s also led 10 o'clock Saturday Morning and now Cassini.
CLIMBER have been in touch with Emma. First off we asked her if she was pleased with how her summer of trad was going...
“I wouldn't necessarily say I'm happy with my trad season but it's been good when I've got out. I'd be happier if weather/time had allowed for a return to Pembroke but work has normally left me pretty knackered! The trad climbing I have done though has included some great routes that I've always wanted to do, but there's a never ending list! This year’s been a slow burner as I've been trying to let my neck and shoulder problems from my whiplash car crash get better by resting and having physio rather than just letting it be ok. I've also been putting time into sports projects.”
Next we asked to describe Cassin and her ascent and to talk about that peg…
“With Cassini it is given the grade of E8 6c. Nick reckoned it had a sliding sport grade of 7c/+ or 7c+/8a depending on your height. I knew I could climb the route, but similarly to Ed Booth I only wanted to lead it once even though the top hard bit is safe. The bottom 10 metres or so of this route is basically unprotected except the psychological placement of a sawn off peg before the trickiest move to hit the break from a dirty small pocket and crimp. Just after I placed the peg I started building my feet off a good side pull to hit the dirty pocket when I saw the peg fall out back to my belayer (Angus). Luckily I'd already psyched myself up that this bit was basically a solo and I knew I didn't want to fall off and break something or try to maybe land on and surf my one boulder pad down the slope. I think this meant I stayed surprisingly calm and just carried on. Once I hit the break and gear placements though it kicked in because I was safe but I still had the hard bit to do if you're a shorty. I paced and tried to relax, making tricky moves between the breaks until I was at the last hard section with small holds culminating in two shallow monos and a little pop to a small flat ledge. I eyed it thinking I had to do it and committed breathing a heavy sigh of relief that I hit it and didn't have to climb the start again. Made even better by Nick Dixon witnessing the top crux section.
Finally, we asked about her sport climbing…
“My sport climbing has been non-existent for the last couple of months due to work and conditions. I've only really been on a Big Bang this year in the UK but the last time it was pretty condensed with holds just picking up all the moisture and feeling very wet. After some good progress where I can do all the moves and make links I got frustrated by bad conditions, I may hit it again or wait for more stable weather and some training over the winter. My sports trips have been frustrating, getting all my kit stolen in Spain at the beginning of the year and shoulder impingement in Rodellar which persuaded me that some time out was needed.”
Not only was Nick on hand to witness Emma’s ascent of Cassini but he’s posted about it too on his timeline including a short video clip of Emma finishing the hard climbing on Cassini which is well worth checking out here…
Keep in touch with DMM's other athletes as well as Emma and with Ray Wood's excellent photography on the DMM Climbing Facebook page here...