Maddy Cope utilises ‘mind control’ to redpoint Mind Control

• Tuesday 26th February 2019

Feb 26^th; 2019

Battling a series of injuries, Maddy Cope has successfully redpointed Mind Control (F8c) at Oliana over the weekend.

Maddy ‘send face’!

As anyone who follows her via her social media feeds will know, Maddy has suffered from a succession of injuries over the last year including finger, elbow and shoulder injuries. However, it’s been Maddy’s latest shoulder injury that has threatened to scupper her success on Mind Control.

Wrapping up 2018, Maddy listed her first few days on Mind Control in the autumn of last year – before she hurt her shoulder - amongst her ‘stand-out’ memories from the year. It’s clear that Mind Control was a serious target. Since injuring her shoulder, Maddy has worked on a holistic approach as she explains; ‘It’s about learning how your body works and what it needs to tip the balance into a healthy ratio of strength, mobility, and flexibility. It's a mind-set that, instead of pushing for peak performance, pushes for healthy movement. When everything works well together we can get full enjoyment out of climbing... performance follows naturally.’

By early February Maddy was back in the saddle on Mind Control. By Feb 14^th, Maddy had fallen off the infamous ‘roll over’ move on each of her three redpoints. Ten days later she held the roll over move and went to the top to clip the chains. With her successful ascent, Maddy has become the third British women to redpoint the route after Hazel Findley and Emma Twyford.

‘Yeah that's right...’ Maddy told CLIMBER, ‘it's a popular route and with good reason; it's a pretty good Spanish sport route for Brits - basically three British sport routes stacked on top of each other.’

Maddy on Mind Control (F8c). Photo Toni Buchaca

CLIMBER have been in touch with Maddy for the details…

Congrats on battling with the injuries and sealing the deal on Mind Control; must be quite a relief?

Thanks, it has been quite an interesting journey trying to get my shoulder better in time to try Mind Control again. I saw a physio called Pablo in Cornudella who really helped, both with the physical and mental sides of the injury. I didn't have any expectations when I tried Mind Control again but was pleasantly surprised. It all boiled down to the big cross over move near the top for me. I got here on my first redpoint and it was the only move I fell off! I was surprised when I held it and climbed to the top - I definitely wasn't "over" the route yet, but was an amazing feeling when I caught it. The weather has been hotting up and my shoulder is giving me a bit of trouble so in that sense it is a relief.

What feels the better of the two; beating the injuries or redpointing Mind Control?

I guess climbing Mind Control, since I don't feel like I have beaten the injuries. My shoulder has given me problems ever since I first hurt it, so I hope that I can maintain the mind set I had with Mind Control (apt name!) and apply it to my climbing from now on... prioritising a healthy and functional body.

When did you first get tuned into doing Mind Control?

I only really got tuned in to trying Mind Control in the autumn when we started thinking about potential crags to visit. I didn't really think about it, it just sort of came out of my mouth when someone asked me what I wanted to try. It’s an amazing line and at 50m perfect for a trad climber!

What’s been the hardest aspect of it for you?

The hardest aspect has been balancing my psyche and rest. I can definitely get over excited and want to go climbing every day, but this isn't possible when you want to be fresh at the crag. I also needed to prioritise physio and was doing that every day, wanting to work my shoulder and activate it for climbing but not tire it too much! The sun has been a bit tricky too... it's a hot crag so you have to be patient!

Does that mean you and Ryan will be leaving Oliana now for pastures new or is there something else you fancy getting stuck into?

We are going to stay around this area a bit longer to hang out with friends before heading back to the UK. Time to head back to work!

You can follow Maddy on social media via her IG page here…