Pete Whittaker adds Koselig Hours to Welsh crack-list
- Thursday 19th July 2018
July 19th; 2018
Pete Whittaker has boosted Welsh roof cracks with a typically tasty-looking roof crack Koselig Hours (E8 6c).
Pete on Koselig Hours. Photo Robert Grew Photography
Previously, reports of an old project had filtered through the ether to Pete Whittaker. Detail were scarce however; ‘old George Smith project’, ‘inland from coast and ‘somewhere in North Wales’! Subsequently, Pete approached George Smith direct. “He was great, very open about it, and told me exactly where to go, and even gave me details like ‘bring a clip stick to reach the first bolt’. brilliant, this is more like it I thought.”
Finally, Pete found the spot. However, it was soaking wet - at that stage! Pete’s initial assessment was promising – kind-off! “I solo aided through the lower bolts and across the wet roof crack. It was looking like a pretty esoteric number; jams, knee bars, moss, seepage, sharp slate, loose flakes. However with a bit of cleaning I could see the potential. This was a big roof crack and cave (for the UK), and worth the effort. We don’t have much like this (apart from in sea cliff caves).”
A second visit was necessary for cleaning purposes: “Another visit created a total filth fest; lichen in the hair, dirt in my eyes and moss in my kegs (oooo tickley and soft). Cleaning a route is always a fun part of the process for me though. It makes it feel as though I'm putting the effort in. And putting the effort in gets rewards.”
Pete trundled three large blocks from the roof crack. Only one ‘flexing flake’ remained. It was time for a belayer! However, despite the unprecedented dry weather the roof crack remained stubbornly wet still! Another day and another visit however and finally it was dry. Pete again; “As the start did offer natural protection I decided it would be fun to do it all on natural gear. After negotiating my way through the roof, I squirmed through the wide flaring finish and got a satisfying mouth full of moss. Brilliant!”
Pete’s addition, Koselig Hours weighs-in at either; “a very generous E8 6c or a very mean E7 6c.” And Pete’s concluding thoughts: “If you’re into weird jamming roof shenanigans then you’ll love it. If not, you’re best just sticking to LPT.”
See more of Robert Grew’s photography on his website here…