Seb Bouin makes first ascent of China’s hardest sport route, El Gran Cabrón (F9b)
- Thursday 6th February 2025
Sébastien Bouin has established the hardest route in China with the first ascent of El Gran Cabron (F9b).
The route, located in Shegeng Cave, in Fengshan County, Guangxi in southern China, was discovered by a local climber in early 2024 and was developed through the hard work of both local and international climbers and bolters. It is now home to China’s hardest route, alongside other medium to hard-grade climbs and projects.
Seb Bouin – well-known for his hard first ascents and repeats in France, Norway and beyond -travelled to China to experience the culture, explore the country’s climbing potential, and establish hard first ascents: “Lost among hundreds of incredible caves and walls, I feel like a child in the middle of an amusement park – completely in awe. Everywhere I look, I’m blown away. It’s an incredible feeling to realise that almost everything here is yet to be discovered. There are so many caves, so many untouched walls – it’s just a matter of choosing the one that calls to us. Every day is thrilling, filled with adventure, discovery, new experiences, and climbing projects. Immersed in a completely new culture, I’m taking in a wave of novelty and adaptation.”
Announcing his success he also commented on his apprehension regarding his visit: “Now, after a mix of confidence and joy, followed by doubts and frustration, I’m happy to have finally sent El Gran Cabrón (F9b).
“Coming to China, I had no idea what to expect. It’s an incredible experience to find such a project and challenge myself in a setting like this. China leaves no one indifferent – I feel like this trip is opening my mind in so many ways. The distance, the unfamiliar culture, and this new way of life disorient me as much as they fascinate me. There are plenty of additional doubts that come with adapting, making the adventure all the more exciting. When I arrived, I was blown away by all the caves. But I wasn’t sure if I would find a hard and inspiring route. We started climbing in the Shegeng cave. A lot of work has already been done by local and foreign climbers – Toni Arbones, David Gambus, Dani Andrada and Jonatan Flor.”
“I went straight to check out El Gran Cabrón, bolted by David Gambús” Seb said: he was however a little taken aback by the style of the climbing: “At first however it wasn’t easy to get accustomed to the style of climbing: I couldn’t make sense of all the moves at first. The climbing here is incredibly complex, with so many methods to figure out. I was surprised by the quality of the rock and the movement style of the route. It’s absolutely beautiful and super fun to climb!”
Seb goes on to describe the nature of the climbing and the difficulties involved in his latest addition: “The crux sequences involve pinches and really physical moves – I love it! The route starts with a F7c+/8a, followed by a Font 7B+ boulder, then a good kneebar rest. After that comes the crux: a Font 8A/+ boulder with amazing moves on vertical holds and pinches – exactly my style! Then there’s a decent rest leading into a tricky Font 7B+/C boulder, where I fell around 5 times due to mistakes on small details. Finally, you have to finish into a Font 7A+ boulder, where I fell once before grabbing the final jug.”
Finally, Seb recognised both the support of the locals and his travel companions: “Huge thanks to the locals for their incredible hospitality and for all the development they’ve done here. Amazing work, guys – BRAVO! And thanks to my travel partners: Toni, Shai, Nadal, Germán.”